Niah National Park Sarawak - Malaysia Tourist Attraction

Niah is one of Sarawak's smaller national parks, but it is certainly one of the most important, and has some of the most unusual visitor attractions. The park's main claim to fame is its role as one of the birthplaces of civilisation in the region. The oldest modern human remains discovered in Southeast Asia were found at Niah, making the park one of the most important archaeological sites in the world.

Yet there is much more to Niah than archaeology. A vast cave swarming with bats and swiftlets; the thriving local economy based on bird-nests and guano; ancient cave paintings; a majestic rainforest criss-crossed with walking trails; abundant plant and animal life - all these and more make up the geological, historical and environmental kaleidoscope that is Niah.

Entry Permits & Fees
There is a nominal entry fee for all National Parks in Sarawak. Photo permits are also required. Check with the National Parks and Wildlife Offices in Miri or Kuching, or with the Sarawak Tourism Board, for the latest fee structure. Day trippers to Niah can obtain a permit and pay any fees at the Park Headquarters.

Niah - Treks and Trails
The park has two well-marked walking trails, Jalan Bukit Kasut and Jalan Madu.

Jalan Bukit Kasut
This trail (green and white markings) leads to the summit of Bukit Kasut. The 45 minute walk passes through beautiful primary rainforest before moving into Kerangas forest at the foot of the hill. You will also see some fascinating cliff vegetation clinging tenuously to life in the steep limestone slopes. The trail is a little steep but the view at the top is worth it, offering a sweeping panorama of the rainforest canopy.

Jalan Madu
This trail (red and white markings) sticks quite close to the banks of the Sungai Subis, a tributary of the Sungai Niah. It takes roughly an hour and passes through both alluvial and peat swamp forest. There are plenty of wild orchids, bizarre mushrooms and giant pandanus plants along the side of the trail.

Niah - The Great Cave
The Great Cave is approximately 3 km from the park headquarters, and is easily reached via the plankwalk, which is enclosed on both sides by dense primary rainforest. The stroll along the plankalk is fascinating in its own right, as you pass close to giant tapang trees with their enormous buttressed roots, padanus plants twice the size of a person, and colourful, exquisitely formed orchids and tree fungi.

It is worth taking your time and walking quietly along the way, as you may well see some of the park's wildlife. Colourful birds, squirrels, lizards, butterflies and all manner of unusual insects and invertebrates are commonly seen. If you are lucky, you may see monkeys (you will certainly hear them), flying lizards and the occasional hornbill.

The first significant rock formation you reach is the Trades's Cave, which is really an extended rock overhang rather than a cave proper. This is where the birds nest and guano traders conduct their business, hence the name.

A few minutes later, the West Mouth of the Great Cave comes into view, and you are left in no doubt that this cave deserves its name. At after 60m high and 250m wide, it is one of the world's most spectacular cave entrances, leading to an even larger chamber within. On the left of the cave mouth, the archaeological excavations are clearly visible. Photographers should come prepared, as the view from the cave mouth out over the surrounding jungle is quite unique, and the jagged stalactites, overhangs and dangling creepers of the cave mounth make a dramatic frame for a very memorable photo.

Proceeding into the cave, the sound of disembodied voices mingles with the aqueaking of millions of bats and swiftlets to create an eerie atmosphere. The voices belong to the guano (bird and bat excrement) covering the cave floor. The guano is then carried in sacks to the Sungai Niah, where it is graded and sold as fertiliser.

Niah - Birds Nests
The guano collectors are not the only people who earn a living from the cave. Strategically positioned bamboo poles and ladders are evidence of the birds nest collectors, local people who have practised this dangerous accupation for generations. The half million swiftlets that live in the cave make their nests purely from their own salivary secretions, and when the nests are cleaned and cooked they produce the famous birds nest soup, which is as highly regarded in Chinese cuisine as caviar is in the West.

Collecting the nests from the cave ceiling is a dangerous job, and fatalities are not uncommon, but the price of birds nests is so high (over US$1,000 per kilo for the best quality) that the risks seem worthwhile. Obviously such a valuable commodity is a magnet for poachers, and over-collection is a constant worry. Therefore the caves are constantly monitored by park wardens, to deter illegal collectors.

The passage at the back of the Great Cave leads to a large chamber known as the Padang, where shafts of sunlight stream down from large holes in the cave roof to illuminate the bizarre rock formations in the Burnt Cave. This is another excellent spot for taking photos. After the Padang, the cave passage becomes pitch black, and it is here that you will need the flashlight, not only to find your way along the plankwalk, but to view the extraordinary shapes and weathering effects found in the Moon Cave.

Niah - Wildlife and The Rainforest
If you leave the Great Cave and return along the plank walk around sunset, you will see two great black clouds intermingling. This is the nightly 'changing of the guard' - half a million swiftlets are returning to their nests, whilst half a million bats fly out to forage in the forest. Although this is one of Niah's most spectacular sights, it represents only two small niches in a complex ecosystem. One of Niah's other noteble sights is the unusual number of luminous fungsi (which can be clearly seen from the plankwalk at night.

Getting There
Niah is within easy reach of both Miri (109 km) and Bintulu (131 km).

From Miri:
Syarikat Bas Suria (Tel: 085-434317/412173)
has a regular bus service to Barn Niah from the Miri Bus Station. The journey time is 1 hr 40 mins. Share taxis from the Bus Station are available, as are regular taxis, which can usually be chartered on a daily basis. A number of tour operators can arrange guided tours to the park. Self-drive cars are also available - ask at your hotel counter or check in the yellow pages.

From Bintulu:
Syarikat Bas Suria (Tel: 086-335489) has a regular bus service to Batu Niah from Bintulu Bus Station. The journey time is 2 hrs. Share taxis from the Bus Station are available, as are regular taxis, which can usually be chartered on a daily basis. Self-drive cars are also available - ask at your hotel counter or check in the yellow pages.

From Batu Niah to the Park Headquarters:
The Park HQ is about 3 kin from Barn Niah. Chartered taxis and tour buses will take you straight there, but if you arrive by bus or share taxi, you have three choices. A motorised longboat from Batu Niah to the Park HQ brings you through delightful jungle scenery. A taxi from Batu Niah is not so interesting but a good idea if it is raining. If you are not too heavily burdened with luggage, the Park HQ is a pleasant 45 minute stroll along the river bank.